Guide for the Construction of Youth Combat Weapons and Shields

  By Uilleam MacUilleam

First things first. Before you begin to build a weapon or shield please read the youth combat rules and regulations for your kingdom. This guide is based on the youth combat rules for the Kingdom of Meridies, and is designed for the resulting weapons and shields to meet that standard. This article only covers Wolf through Ram divisions (Ages 7 – 15). The Dragon division (Ages 16 and 17) use adult weapons and shields as a minimum standard, and parents should consult the rules for adult fighting for those standards.

WARNING: This article is constantly evolving due to the different things we learn as the youth combat program evolves. So, you may want to check back occasionally to see what we have learned.

General Info: What follows shouldn't necessarily be taken as gospel, but should help as a guide.

All of the stuff you need for weapons and shields (except rattan) will be at hardware stores like Home Depot, or Ace, or most Mom and Pop hardware stores.

The only foam I mention below is gray pipe insulation. You can use any type of close-celled foam such as other types of pipe insulation or pool noodle.

In all situations with pipe insulation that has a gap after you put it on the base material. Cut a strip about the width of the gap and fill the gap with it before covering it with tape.

Weapons:

Base Materials: PVC is the main material used for the construction of most youth combat weapons. The appropriate sizes for different types of weapons are listed below in the “Materials Needed” section. All PVC weapons must be capped at both ends of the weapon. 

Shaved rattan is also legal for all divisions for single-handed swords only. ¾” is preferred but 7/8” is acceptable, but no larger. The end of the rattan in the blade must have the edges rounded off.

Determining the length of a single-handed sword: A good way to determine the length of a single- handed sword is to use the distance from the floor to the hip of the child as the overall (blade, hilt, thrusting tip, and all) length of the sword. Leave enough room at the hilt for the guard (if you want one) and a little larger than the hand and make the rest the blade.

Taping the Weapon: Do not tape the foam down firmly on any weapons. It should be almost as pliable on the weapon as it was coming out of the package. I suggest using two layers of tape for all weapons. The first layer should be of fiberglass strapping tape. First, “wrap” a couple of layers of strapping tape around the tip of the weapon from the end down to about two or three inches past the end of the base material. This will make the tip of the weapon stiffer and more durable. Second, finish the first layer by covering the rest of the blade with strips of strapping tape lengthwise on the blade from the tip to the hilt. The second layer is of duct tape. Use a couple of short strips to cover the tip of the sword and cover the rest of the blade with strips of duct tape lengthwise on the blade from the tip to the hilt. Make sure there is enough overlap at the hilt to secure the tape to the base material. Then use a short thin strip of tape to wrap around the overlap to help secure the foam and tape to the base material.    

The Tip of the Weapon: One thing to remember is that when you are making a sword or similar weapon the foam has to extend 1 1/2 inches beyond the end of the base material. This results in a hole in the end of the sword. You must take some foam and fill in the hole before covering the hole with tape. Discs cut out of foam or small foam scraps work really well for this. Remember when taping the tip to “wrap” a couple of layers of strapping tape around the tip of the weapon from the end down to about two or three inches past the end of the base material.

Thrusting Tips: Thrusting tips must be made of closed cell foam and tape, loosely wrapped, a minimum of 2 1/2 inches in diameter and extending 4 inches past the end of the base material.  Thrusting tips should be sturdy enough to not completely fold over upon impact.

Blade and thrusting tip markings: The blades of all weapons must be marked with a contrasting color of the main color of the weapon. (i.e.; weapon is silver, the blade should be red, or black, or green… you get the idea.) Thrusting Tips have to be of a third color. (i.e.: weapon is silver, the blade is black, the thrusting tip is red.)  

Weapons Other Than Swords: Axes heads, mace heads, and similar weapons can be made of foam and tape only. Using a buildup of layers of foam is probably the best method. The shafts of the weapons have to be made of PVC and padded in same manner as swords.

Basket hilts and Quillions (cross guards): Basket hilts and Quillions are allowed on swords and other weapons. Basket hilts cannot be made of metal. Leather, garden hose, and Kydex, ABS, and other plastics are acceptable. Garden hose or other flexible non-metallic tube must be wrapped in duct tape. Quillions or cross-guards for swords may be constructed of leather, garden hose, or plastic and must be covered completely with 1/2 inch of closed cell foam.

IMPORTANT: Whenever you make a weapon out of PVC the schedule and the PSI rating needs to be visible on the handle or haft of the weapon so the inspecting marshalls know it is made of the correct materials. Otherwise the marshalls will have to tear the weapon apart to confirm the material is correct. Writing the schedule and PSI rating on the handle or haft is not sufficient. It must be the original print on the pipe. The best way to do this is to be sure that the schedule and PSI rating is on the handle or haft when you cut the PCV. If the schedule and PSI rating need to be covered with tape, cut a window in the tape so the schedule and PSI rating can be seen.

Materials Needed:

Single Handed Sword and Mass Weapons (Axes, Maces):

½” Schedule 40 PVC (600psi) with end caps or ¾” or 7/8” Shaved Rattan (Shaved Rattan is legal in all divisions for single handed swords only. ¾” is preferred but 7/8” is acceptable, but no larger.

½” regular gray pipe insulation for PVC based weapons. It is preferred for the insulation to fit tight on the PVC. However, if you use a larger size it shouldn't be a problem as long as the insulation is securely fastened to the PVC and doesn't slide.

¾” or 1" regular gray pipe insulation for Shaved Rattan. (See above comments for fit.)

Hand and a Half Swords, Two Handed Swords, Hafted Weapons (Great Axes and such), Pole Arms, Spears:

1" Schedule 40 PVC (450-480psi) or Schedule 80 PVC (450-480psi)  (probably preferred due to not being so wimpy.) with end caps.

1" regular gray pipe insulation.

Remember the final diameter for the striking surfaces for a pole arms, hand and a half swords, and a two handed swords is different (2 ¾”) than a single handed sword (1 ¾”)

The shaft portion of pole weapons must be marked in the middle.  This should create markings so that each third of the weapon is easily identified (i.e.; one third is blade, one third is between the bottom of the blade and a handle mark, and the final third is between the handle mark and the base).  During use, one hand should be in the upper portion of the handle, and one in the lower portion.  The markings should make this easy to monitor.  This prevents holding and swinging a pole weapon from the very end.

Butt spikes are not allowed.

Shields:

Materials Needed:

¼” plywood is the minimum thickness. Recommended, especially in the Wolf (7-9yrs.) and Ram (10-12yrs.) divisions.  

A solid door handle or short thick leather or fabric strap.

A strap to secure the forearm, and to help steady the shield. (Most people use each end of a belt or a solid but slightly loose leather or web strap to slip their arm through.

Appropriate number of bolts, washers and nuts for both handle and arm strap. DO NOT USE SCREWS! The ends of the bolts should not stick up higher than 1/8” from the top of the bolt, or they will have to be covered with several layers of dust tape.

Shields baskets or a heavily padded gauntlet is now required for the Bear and Dragon divisions to protect the shield hand. They may be made of metal or plastic on the order of pickle barrel, but can be made of other materials such as rubber hose.

Shield Edging: All shield edges must be protected by tubing (Plastic, rubber, garden hose, etc.) or leather and covered with foam. Foam pipe insulation is suggested.

If you are using a hose for the shield edging, I recommend completely splitting the hose in half lengthwise and then gluing one of the hose halves to the shield edge. This will meet the requirements and reduce the overall weight of the shield significantly.

Taping the Foam on the Shield: Tape the foam on the shield the same way you would on weapons. It should be almost as pliable on the weapon as it was coming out of the package. I suggest using two layers of tape for all shields. The first layer should be of fiberglass strapping tape. The second layer is of duct tape.  The foam can be held down to the shield with duct taped if desired. However, it is a good idea to also hold the edging down by wrapping the edging with a light, but durable, round or flat braid cord (I prefer a flat braid). Accomplish this by drilling small holes at regular intervals (about 1 ½ - 2 inches) around the edge of the shield near the edge of the foam and threading the cord through the holes and over the edging. Do not wrap the cord tight, just enough to be snug against the foam, but not depressing it.